Thursday, December 13, 2007

Schengen Sucks



Why am I pissed at a small wine-making town in Luxembourg? Because that is where the Schengen Agreement was signed. For a while now, we have been planning extended (i.e. a year or so) travel in Europe, and this particular agreement is throwing a big wrench into our plans.

The agreement allows open borders between most of the European Union and essentially makes them seem like one big country to foreign travelers. That doesn't seem bad, until you look into visa issues. The problem is that now that the EU countries are all nice and friendly with each other, they limit your travel visa time in the region as a whole. You can only spend 3 months in Schengen countries before you need to leave. And you need to leave for at least another 3 months before you can come back.

This, of course, makes it very difficult to do extended travel in Europe. There are special visas that you can get, but the process seems very difficult, potentially expensive, and not guaranteed to end successfully.

So, screw Schengen (at least for now). We're off to D.F.

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Faux Pho'



A by-product of our recent testa making experience was nine cups of left-over gelatinous liquid. Sherry posted on Chowhound asking for suggestions on how to use the left-over "pork jello", and one of the suggestions was to make Pho'. The flavor profile used in coppa di testa -- with hints of cinnamon, clove and allspice -- ends up being similar to what is used in Pho'. Pho' is usually beef broth based, but we figured what the heck.

We cut the pork jello with turkey stock (two parts pork to one part turkey), added rice noodles and traditional condiments, then added a few slices of testa into the mix to provide some "meaty bits". Not authentic, but very tasty.

Saturday, December 8, 2007

Making Sausage



We have been making our own sausage for years now. It is easy to do and allows you to use whatever ingredients you want. We have used pork, turkey, and chicken and have gone all sorts of flavor directions - Mexican, Spanish, Thai. Our go-to staple, though, is the basic Italian sausage.

Sausage making starts with the meat. For Italian sausage, you want to use a cut of pork with high fat content. This can usually been done quite cheaply. This time, we used country-style pork ribs for a whopping $0.99 a pound.



Next, you will need some kind of meat grinder. We're really happy with the grinding attachment for our Kitchenaid mixer.



Once the meat is ground, it needs to be seasoned. Italian sausage is pretty simple. Fennel seed (whole and ground), fresh garlic and hot red chile flakes make up the flavor base. Salt and pepper give it a boost and a little dry white wine helps keep it moist. Using your hands, mix gently, but thoroughly. As Elise and Tom point out, make sure you fry up a little patty to taste for seasoning. Does it need salt? More heat?



It is important to chill your seasoned sausage meat in the fridge for at least two hours or overnight. This makes the fat more solid and less slippery to work with when stuffing and improves the final texture.

Once you your sausage meat is ready, it is time for casings. We use natural casings that we get from our local butcher. We use hog casings for regular sized sausage and sheep casings for smaller sausages (like breakfast links).



The casing comes packed in salt to preserve it. You'll probably only need 2 or 3 strands - the rest should be sealed tightly and stored in the refrigerator.



You need to rinse and hydrate them before use.



And then it is back to the Kitchenaid again. This time, the grinder is replaced with a sausage-stuffing tube.



Twist up the resulting mega-sausage into smaller ones, and you're done.



Once you have basic sausages like these mastered, there are all sorts of other kinds of sausages to try. A couple of our favorites:

  • Smoked Andouille - We got hooked on Andouillle when visiting Louisiana. This is our version.
  • Smoked Beef Sausages - Our recreation of the amazing beef sausages they make in Lockhart, Texas.

Italian Sausage
Two teaspoon chile flakes results in a medium spicy sausage. Adjust up or down to your taste.
2 1/2 pounds pork shoulder (with plenty of fat)
2 teaspoons fennel seeds
2-3 garlic cloves, minced
1/3 cup dry white wine
1/2 teaspoon ground fennel seed
2 teaspoons red chile flakes
3 teaspoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

Cut meat into finger-shaped strips. Grind coarsely with a meat grinder. Chill 1 hour. Use your hands to thoroughly mix in the seasonings (use a light hand and work quickly to keep the fat from going mushy). Pinch off about a tablespoon of sausage and cook it in a small fry pan. Taste for seasoning - add additional chile or salt if required. Chill the sausage meat at least 2 hours or overnight.

Select 2 or 3 lengths of hog casings and place into a sink full of cool water. Hydrate for about 10 minutes, then scoop up the casings and replace the salty water with fresh water. Rinse the inside of each casing by holding the end open with two fingers and allow a thin stream of cool water to enter the casing and expand it. Empty each casing then repeat the rinse.

Feed the casing onto a sausage stuffer tube and stuff with cold sausage meat. Pack the sausages fairly full, but don't over-stuff. Twist the resulting sausage into links 4 to 5 inches long. Chill a couple hours before cutting apart into individual links. Freeze any sausages that won't be used within a couple of days.

Thursday, December 6, 2007

Liars' Club R.I.P.



Well, the swirling rumors over the past several weeks about the fate of the Liars' club in Mission Beach seem to have settled. The word definitely seems to be that they have packed up for good and moved to Alpine. They might as well have moved to Phoenix - we'd be just about as likely to visit the new location (i.e. not likely).

Sad, sad news indeed.

Wednesday, December 5, 2007

Warm Testa with Waxy Potatoes

Warm Testa with Waxy Potatoes

This dish is from the Babbo Cookbook, and is quite easy to make (provided you have testa on hand). The potatoes give a nice textural contrast, and the "shallot pickles" and mustard seeds provide a complimentary zing.

Sunday, December 2, 2007

San Diego Strong Ale Festival



We had a great day yesterday at the 11th Annual San Diego Strong Ale Festival up at Port Carlsbad. They had a wide variety of Double IPAs, Belgians, and high octane stouts and porters.

Without exception, everything I tried was fantastic, but highlights were Alesmith Yulemith and the Oak Aged Yeti Imperial Stout from Great Divide.

We also stopped in next door at Pizza Port to consume some food and some lower alcohol beverages (Poor Man's and Duet) by the xmas tree.

Saturday, December 1, 2007

November In Review

Another busy month here at Menu In Progress. Here is November in review. As always, if you would like the recipe for any of the dishes we didn't blog, just let us know.


You can view all of our past monthly review posts here.