Sunday, December 17, 2023

Da Nang - Grilled Meats at Hai Còi and Cay Xè

Craving something grilled, we stopped in for some chicken at Hai Còi. There are a number of similar "chân/cánh" (feet/wing) places within a block or so - we chose this one because it had a good vibe going on.

Although translated on the menu as "chicken legs", "chân gà" really means chicken feet. We enjoy braised chicken feet, but it turns out they aren't super interesting grilled - there just really isn't anything that can be easily eaten on them.

The chicken wings (cánh gà), on the other hand, were incredibly delicious.

Another night after a few drinks in the expat area of Da Nang, we happened to round a corner and stumble upon another collection of grilled meat stalls.

We stopped at one called Cay Xè for some grilled pork.

The tables are set up with holes to accomodate a charcoal grill.

We ordered some pork belly (I think) and they recommended something called "pork frills" (điểm nướng) - not sure what park of the pig that is, but it was tasty.

Interestingly, the setup came with kimchi - I think probably due to the increasing tourism the area is getting from Korea?

Da Nang - Revisits to Bánh Xèo Bà Dưỡng and Bánh Mì Bà Lan

While in Da Nang, we re-visited a couple of place we'd enjoyed before. First up was Bánh Xèo Bà Dưỡng.

The place was exactly as I remembered it.

The Bánh Xèo and was still great.

As were the Nem Lụi.

Another night, looking for a quick and easy dinner, we stopped by Bánh Mì Bà Lan.

We got a sandwich each, and also shared a "breadstick" (a skinny little Bánh Mì with just pate). Nice, simple dinner.

Vietnam - Rooster (Bia Gà) and Bia Nhà

During our trip, we sampled some beer from a few craft breweries. It was nice to try a local take on brewing, and even nicer to get a brief respite from the endless parade of lagers that make up the SE Asian beer options.

Our favorite spot was Rooster (Bia Gà) in Saigon. Their IPA was very good - it wouldn't be out of place on a tap list at home.

The beers at Bia Nhà in Da Nang weren't as polished - they had more of a homebrew thing going on. The people running it were very nice, though, and we enjoyed our visit.

Saigon - Hủ tiếu and Bún Bò Huế at Út Huệ

Another evening in Saigon after dinner "Plan A" had fizzled, we again found ourselves hungry and looking for targets of opportunity.

We came across a nice looking little shop selling Hủ tiếu and Bún Bò Huế.

We got one bowl of each. Hủ tiếu was a new soup for us, and this version was terrific. Great broth, and lots of goodies - shrimp, quail eggs, pork slices, meat on the bone. A very "dặc biệt" bowl.

The Bún Bò Huế was also loaded and delicious. We left happy and satisfied.

Saigon - Bún Thịt Nướng at Thái Bình Market

We love the combo of rice noodles and grilled meats, so I was looking forward to trying a southern Vietnamese take on it.

Thái Bình was the closest market to where we were staying, so we stopped by the food stall area one late morning.

Following the savory-smelling smoke, we found the spot we were looking for. Ladies were busy grilling over several separate stations.

We got bowls with a bit of everything in them - grilled pieces or meat, sausages, and meat-filled rolls.

Mixing it up with some chilies and a generous amount of nước chấm, it was super good. Perfect food in a perfect setting.

Sunday, December 10, 2023

Saigon - Cơm Tấm

Cơm tấm (which translates as "broken rice") may well be the quintessential dish in Saigon. Elegant in its simplicity, it is rice made from broken grains served with grilled meat (usually pork or chicken), varied extras, and nước chấm.

On our first full day in Saigon, we were out looking for dinner. A couple of options I'd researched fell through, and we were left wandering the streets getting hungry. And then we came upon this little cart by the side of the road.

It turned out to be the perfect way to experience cơm tấm for the first time. The lady running the cart was very nice, and another lady who spoke a bit of English helped us through the ordering process.

We got two plates - both with sườn nướng (grilled pork chop - probably the most common item), and one with the addition of some chả (pork loaf).

It was perfect.

Mid-day is a more typical time to get cơm tấm, and one day we went out walking to find a spot called Quán Cơm Tấm Hùng.

We got one plate with pork chop and egg, and one with pork ribs and chả.

Delicous. The best food in Vietnam is always down an alley.

Saigon - Bánh Mì Hồng Hoa and Phố Cổ 159

No visit to Vietnam can be considered complete without having some Bánh Mì. We had a couple in Saigon.

A number of famous bánh mì spots were right near our hotel. The most famous ones seemed to be mostly renowned for how big and stuffed with meat they are (kind of a Vietnamese equivalant of the New York deli sandwich).

Not needing or wanting a huge sandwich, we stopped in at place called Hồng Hoa just outside the alley where our hotel was located.

We got two sandwiches - one thịt nướng (grilled meat) and one heo quay (roast pork).

Both sandwiches were very good.

They also had xôi, so we got an order. Sticky rice with a hint of cinnamon, topped with fried shallots and cold cuts. Delicous.

Another day we stopped for lunch at a well-rated place called Phố Cổ 159.

We got a roast pork sandwich, and a mixed meat sandwich from the lady working her cart out front of a travel agency (which she used for seating).

Both sandwiches were good, if nothing special. My guess is the place is mostly rated well for its clean, spacious seating area (something not common at bánh mì spots).